![]() ![]() Lags and timber screws can pull stuff tight where if you use dowel type metal, rebar, nails etc if the log is a rocking chair you can pound one end down, go to the other and pound it down and watch the other end pop up. Any projecting edges need to be shaped back underneath the log above creating water shedding drip edges rather than water collecting ledges. A saw kerf down the bottom edge about 1/4 depth also helps relieve stress and directs checking to that lower hidden face. The caulk saver is known as backer rod and comes in many diameters. Use close celled foams, open cell is water holding sponge. A router or power planer run down the bottom face depending on the foam. The infill between posts can be log.Īny of the foam strips need a space to live in if they are going to have any recovery, smush them dead flat and they wont bounce back and fill a gap so it you use them you need to plow a shallow groove to set them in. A post frame building braces the posts by extending them to the top plate and uses the sheathed walls to brace the posts. Posts running from a footing up to a floor, unbraced, are simply something to tip over. There are also permanent wood foundations on gravel footings. And all that stuff will come I just want to get it started and giver hell.įor foundation if you can drain the 4' deep clay swimming pool to daylight you could do a gravel filled trench footing then build on skids on top of the gravel. I'd love to build the style where the loft goes over the front porch so that you have a place to hang out outside in the rain. I have a man bucket for the backhoe we built so I can easily lift a man up to tackle airborne stuff. M y plan was to build the walls probably 8' tall and then on one side lay a bunch of 4圆's or something across on one side to make a loft and then build the roof over it. See I'm just a hack and I want to use modern technology combined with a little bit of old school tried and true to make something functional as fast as I can using every advantage I have (sawmill, backhoe, logs). Can I just set them on top of each other and stagger them for stability and timberlock them to each other? Can I just set the two flat surfaces on top of each other and then chink it or should I put some sort of insulation strips down and sandwich them? So how can I connect them without spending all this time cutting joints. I really don't care what it looks like, just need something functional. My idea was to either make them all 6" thick so that everything is even.I want to have a thick wall like a traditional log cabin would.but I also have some big ole pine logs that I could cut down and make square pieces to fit in there. The cedar I have is mainly 12' long and some 10'ers. I have a mess of northern white cedar and white pine I can use for this. Walls.I'm thinking to make d logs on the sawmill to use for the walls. Reason being I have 16' logs and 12' logs.Ģ. It's gonna be prolly around 16x24 or something like that. Of course I don't have enough black locust to use as poles to set in the ground. Would prefer to use wood for cheapness, kinda like a pole barn but I'm not sure how that'd hold up. ![]() Really don't wanna mess with pouring any concrete.but I could probably get footers from utopia concrete or something if I decided to go that route. I'm in greasy clay soil too so whatever it is is gonna need to be able to tolerate having wet feet. Foundation.I need to go down at least 4'. Well really my main concern is getting the foundation done before the ground freezes, so I need to decide how I'm gonna do it.ġ. Really wanna get it up before this winter, don't have much time. Something that will last a long DanG time too. Nothing fancy but I want it to be simple, tough and fast. I needa make a place to sleep in at night and where the crew can warm up during the cold winter days and maybe cook some lunch for them too. ![]()
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